SQUALENE PRODUCTS: THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE Process
WHILE IT IS EASY TO RECOGNIZE THE DEVASTATION CREATED BY THE SQUALENE MARKET, IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT TO HIGH-FIVE AND SUPPORT THE BRANDS WITH SUCCESS STORIES. AFTER ALL, THE POWER LIES WITH THE CONSUMER!
Sometimes in advocacy, it is easy to have blinders on to progress, because we are laser-focused on the end goal. We believe that one shark killed for cosmetics is too many, but the reality is that the industry is starting to listen to us all speak out for sharks and that is a tremendous step forward. That is what is at the core of this investigative initiative, creating a list of brands that we believe are looking out for sharks vs. those that are shadier in sharing information, in our humble opinion. We will explain how we have created this “master” list so that you can investigate your own makeup and skincare routines from home. There is an endless list of cosmetics and skincare brands out there that is growing with every day. With more people helping we can make this list more comprehensive and effective.
Before we dive in, a little background on the developments. Due to the persistence of peer campaigns, in 2008, two mega-mogul cosmetic companies, Unilever (responsible for brands like Ponds and Dove), and L’Oreal publicly agreed to stop the use of shark-derived squalene in their moisturizing creams and lipsticks. This pact came after it was found that the sharks that supply the squalene market are under threat. Bravo for making a step to the right side of this issue! Before Unilever and L’Oreal, the cosmetic company Beiersdorf (responsible for Nivea, Clarins, Boots, Sisley and La Mer) pledged not to use animal-based squalene as well. Advocacy didn’t stop there. As stated in a previous blog, non-profit organization, BLOOM, conducted a series of tests in 2014, finding that 1 in 5 creams had traces of purified shark liver oil, proving that this is still an issue.
After many requests to compile a “master” list of cosmetics companies, we saw the importance of providing the public with a starting point and method, even if we don’t have the funds to purchase products and conduct testing. In this list, you will see a large sampling of brands that we have deemed “in the clear” based on this method, an unfortunate handful “brands to avoid”, and a list of brands that we are in the process of investigating. Here’s how we came to our decisions, after months upon months of follow-up emails and calls and multiple individuals reaching out to compare responses. This may seem like a long process, it is, but it is worth it. Patience and kindness is key.
Step 1 - Locate Ingredients: Head to your makeup bag or medicine cabinet to pull your favorite products, check to see if they have the ingredient “squalene” or “squalane”. If the product ingredients are not right there on the packaging or the bottle, the brand’s website will likely have this information. If your product does not contain either form of squalene, great, consider it shark-free. However, if your product contains either “squalene” or “squalane” chances are the sourcing is not listed next to it. In some cases, although it’s rare, companies have articles or blogs on their ingredients sourcing, so some digging is required before reaching out to customer service.
Step 2 - Reach out to Customer Service: If you are comfortable on the phone, knowing that you are speaking to fellow human is preferred, although emails will do! Your first message should be unassuming and kind, for example: “Dear Brand, I love your anti-aging night moisturizer and saw that it uses the ingredient ‘squalane’ but there is no source listed. I know that squalane can come from many sources, can you please confirm where yours is derived from?” Simple.
Step 3 - Deciphering Responses: Some companies are already in the know and will respond fairly immediately with their squalene sourcing (sugarcane, olives, beetroot, wheat germ, etc.). We tend to give these companies the stamp of approval, but only AFTER we have had multiple individuals reach out with the same responses. If they seem proud to announce their sourcing, ask if there is a Development or Labelling department to be transferred to and inquire about listing the source right on the bottle and website. Here is where you can also inquire about a Certificate of Analysis. Many customer service representatives do not have this information, but if you make it past them, they should be willing to provide it. Unless they have something to hide, of course. Please note that in this type of investigating, a Certificate of Analysis is the best proof of sustainable squalene/squalane.
An extremely frequent response you will get is “plant-based” or “vegan.” In our book, that does not fly as it is not specific enough. Inquire again, kindly, with something like the following: “That is fantastic news, thank you for choosing a sustainable option for squalane. I know that it can be derived from many plants, yeasts and bacterias, can you please confirm the specific source?” Here is where you will really be able to gauge an acceptable response vs. a shady one. You will either get a specific source answered, or they will tell you the information is not available/shareable/public domain. Again, if you have a couple friends reach out and you get the same response (assuming it is not a “canned” response), we can move the company to the good list. It goes without saying that a company that cannot share their ingredient sourcing, in our opinions, are likely using shark squalane.
Please contact the Shark Allies team if you have any questions throughout your investigating, we are not the ultimate authority but we are well-seasoned. If you come across a responsive company that wishes to proclaim their protection of sharks, please send them our way, we would love to give them a shout out!
THE GOOD
ACURE, Almay, Aquaphor, bareMinerals, Biossance*, Bobbi Brown, Boots, Burt's Bees, Charlotte Tilbury, Clarins, Clinique, Covergirl, Dear Self Skincare, Dermologica, DHCDime Beauty Co., Dove, Drunk Elephant, E.l.f, Estee Lauder, First Aid Beauty, Fresh, Glossier, Haus Laboratories, Ilia, Indie Lee, Kiehls, KKW Beauty, Kopari, Kylie Cosmetics, Kylie Skin, La Mer, Loreal, Love Beauty Planet, Malie Organics, Milk Makeup, Moon Juice, MyChelle, NARS, Necessaire, Nivea, Olay, Origins, Osea, Pacifica, Pangea Organics, Patchology*, Peter Thomas Roth, Plaine Products, Pond's, Prima, Quai, Rare Beauty, Revlon, Rodin, Shaklee, Sisley, Smith and Cult, St. Ive's, Stream2Sea*, Suave, Summer Fridays, Tatcha, The Ordinary, Trader Joe's, True Botanicals, Tula, Urban Skin, RxVersed, and Xeno*.
THE Bad
We have decided to give brands the benefit of the doubt unless we are absolutely clear, and have also received a response that they are unwilling to change. We continue to reach out to the “Unclear and Work in Progress” brands and will generate this part of the list in the future.
THE UNCLEAR
When squalene is listed as an ingredient and the online ingredients also don’t clarify the source of the squalene, then a certificate of analysis is the best way to prove that it isn’t shark-derived squalene. These companies either didn’t show the source and/or didn’t make a certificate available.
Aveeno, Cetaphil, Honest, Milani, Ole Hendriksen, Tarte.
AND THE WORK IN PROGRESS
Alba, Anthony, Art Naturals, Becca, Benefit, BioRepublic, Boscia, CeraVe, Cetaphil, Clean and Clear, Dr. Dennis Gross, Fortuna Skin, Goop, It Cosmetics, Kopari, Maybelline, Neutrogena, Pixi, Revolution, Sephora Collection, The Inkey List, Well People, Wet n Wild, Winky Lux, Yves Rocher.
Disclaimer:
Because Sharks Allies does not have the funds to conduct testing, our information is based on months of conversations with companies, gauging countless customer service responses via phone and email, as well as proof of Certificate of Analyses where applicable. A Certificate of Analysis is the best proof you can get. It is up to YOU, the consumer, to do the same. Anybody can replicate this process.
* = confirmed Certificate of Analysis